Karatsu Shrine's Karatsu Kunchi
While Saga Prefecture hosts many festivals during the autumn months, Karatsu Shrine’s Karatsu Kunchi festival should be on your radar. With a rich history spanning more than 400 years, beginning with a mysterious encounter, allow me to introduce you to this float-filled festival.
The mirror that reflected the festival
The Karatsu Kunchi festival we know today began as a mikoshi procession that housed the three marine gods of Karatsu Shrine: Sokoatsutsuno-no-Mikoto (底筒男命), Nakaatsutsuno-no-Mikoto (中筒男命), and Omototsutsuno-no-Mikoto (表筒男命). This shrine has a mysterious legend that led to its founding in 755 during the Nara period (710 to 794). The legend features the legendary Empress Jingu, her journey, and a mirror that called out.
“Long ago, when Empress Jingu was traveling to the Three Kingdoms of Korea, she prayed to the three Sumiyoshi gods for safe passage. After her return to Japan, she was so impressed by their divine power that she hung a sacred mirror on the beach of Matsuura to enshrine the spirits of the three gods” (Karatsu Shrine). Later, in 755, this very mirror would be found by Lord Kanda Soji after it appeared to him in a divine dream. Following the dream, he went to the seashore and found the mirror in a box that was floating in the water.
He reverently believed it to be something the Empress had presented to him and reported it to the Emperor. On the 29th of September of that year, he* was granted the divine title of 唐津大明神 ‘Karatsu Daimyojin’” (Karatsu Shrine). The shrine was rebuilt in 1186 and again in 1602, where it still stands today with its many additions throughout the years, including its name officially becoming Karatsu Shrine in 1873.
*While the English translation says he, it’s referring to the shrine that was originally called Karatsu Maimyojin.
Now, back to the origins of the festival that began at this shrine. “During the Kanbun era of the Edo period (1661 to 1673), an event was held in which a portable shrine was carried to the temporary shrine, and the festival developed from there” (Saga Prefectural Cultural Tourism Federation). While the focus was initially on the portable shrine, it was also on the 傘鉾 kasahoko, more commonly known as kasaboko in English, “which were floats adorned with umbrellas and decorations” (Saga Prefectural Cultural Tourism Federation). In addition to being a float, the kasaboko also have a religious significance, as they have the ability to contain spirits. Clearly, umbrellas carry a much deeper meaning in Japan than simply protecting one from the rain.
The meaning behind the procession
“Umbrellas are used all over the world, but a unique characteristic of Japan is the belief that souls or gods descend upon them. This is expressed by the word "yorishiro" 依り代 (an object to which gods or spirits reside). In Japanese history, there is a deep-rooted animistic belief that souls reside in all things. The shape of the umbrella is such that its circular form resembles the shape of a soul, and its handle is likened to a pillar (which was considered a place where souls could easily descend), making it a suitable "yorishiro" for souls to reside.
Japanese festivals held at temples and shrines are intended to express gratitude to the gods, pray for a bountiful harvest, and honor the spirits of ancestors, and it is thought that umbrellas came to appear as "yorishiro" (objects that serve as vessels for spirits) in these festivals. Starting with the role of appeasing the souls of the deceased and warding off disease by having the umbrella absorb it, it is believed that festival umbrellas have played various roles, such as being made large and elaborate to serve as town landmarks. The large floats called "kasaboko," which are umbrellas adorned with many decorations and lead the festival processions, are now the highlight of festivals all over the country, but they originally started as ‘yorishiro’’ (Public Relations Office: Government of Japan).
In the 1600s, as the kasaboko accompanied the mikoshi, hikiyama (floats) began to appear with them. “It is said that the procession of the portable shrine in Karatsu Kunchi began around the Kanbun era (1661-1673) of the Edo period. The floats were built to accompany the portable shrine and protect the gods. The current floats originated in 1819 when Katana-machi, one of the parishioners' towns, dedicated a red lion to Karatsu Shrine. Over the next 57 years, until 1876, 15 floats were produced. One of these was destroyed in the mid-Meiji period, leaving 14 floats to this day” (Karatsu Shrine).
Of the hikiyama that originated around this time, the "Akajishi" (Red Lion) float was completed in 1819, and it remains one of the most popular. Each float has such a unique design and history that has captivated people for generations. These beautiful floats were designated as an important cultural property of Saga Prefecture in 1958, a nationally important intangible folk cultural property in 1980, and most recently it was registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2016.
How are the floats made?
According to Karatsu Shrine, the floats take around three years to create, can weigh up to 4 tons, and need to be pulled by 200- 400 people. Each float is composed of wood, clay, washi paper, and hemp cloth. They are then finished off with lacquer and silver and gold decorations.
Introducing the floats
While initially there were 15 floats, there are now 14 that you can find listed below:
First float, Katana-machi Akajishi (Red Lion)
Second float, Nakamachi, Blue Lion
Third float, Zaimokucho: The Turtle and Urashima Taro
Float No. 4, Gofukumachi: Minamoto no Yoshitsune's Helmet
Fifth Float, Uoya-machi: Sea Bream
The sixth float, Oishi-cho: Hououmaru
Seventh float, Shinmachi: Hiryu (Flying Dragon)
[Eighth float, Honmachi: Golden Lion
Float No. 9, Momenmachi: Takeda Shingen's Helmet
Tenth Float, Hirano-cho: Uesugi Kenshin's Helmet
Float No. 11, Yoneya-cho: Shuten-doji and Minamoto no Yorimitsu's Helmet
Twelfth Float, Kyomachi: Tamatori-jishi (Jewel-Taking Lion)
Thirteenth Float, Mizushimachi: Shachi (Orca)
Float No. 14, Egawa-cho, Shichihomaru
Karatsu Kunchi Festival
Every year, the Karatsu Kunchi festival is held on November 2nd-4th. The following information comes from the Saga Prefectural Cultural Tourism Federation.
November 2nd
November 2nd, Evening Float Procession: 7:00 PM to 9:30 PM
Six of the 14 floats will begin their procession from Oteguchi in Karatsu City. As they parade through the old castle town, the other eight floats will join them from their respective neighborhoods, and after touring the towns, they will head towards Karatsu Shrine. *During the reconstruction of the float exhibition hall, the procession will end at a temporary float exhibition hall.
Route: Oteguchi, Karatsu City → Old Castle Town → Karatsu Shrine
November 3rd
The procession to the temporary shrine on November 3rd will take place from 9:30 AM to 4:30 PM.
At 9:30 a.m., the portable shrine and 14 floats will depart from Karatsu Shrine, pass through the old castle town, and head towards the temporary shrine at Nishinohama. At Nishinohama, the floats, each weighing 2-3 tons, will be pulled onto the sandy ground. After being pulled out of the temporary shrine, they will parade through each town.
Pulling into the temporary shrine (from 12:00 p.m)
Pulling out (from 15:00 p.m)
Route: Karatsu Shrine → Old castle town → Temporary shrine (Nishinohama) → Each town
November 4th
November 4th, the day after the festival, from 10:00 to 16:40
On the following day, the 14 floats that departed from Karatsu Shrine parade through the old castle town along almost the same route as the previous day's procession to the temporary shrine. The floats that paraded through the city in the morning gather at Komeya-machi Street around noon. In the afternoon, they parade through the city again, and in the evening they are stored at the float exhibition hall next to the Karatsu City Furusato Kaikan Alpino. As it is the final day, the float pullers pull with their last ounce of strength, reluctant to say goodbye to their floats. With spirited shouts and the cheers of the spectators joining in, it becomes a moving finale.
Route: Karatsu Shrine → Old Castle Town Parade (First Half) → Komeya-machi Street (Lunch Break) → Old Castle Town Parade (Second Half) → Float Exhibition Hall
From a mikoshi procession to a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage event, the Karatsu Kunchi festival and its beautiful floats are sure to leave you mesmerized. Be sure to pay attention to weather advisories, stay hydrated, and stay warm 🏮.
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