Soaking in Japan’s Famous Onsen Towns: Kusatsu, Kinosaki, Beppu, and Dogo
- Narelle Katsumoto
- 1 日前
- 読了時間: 8分
Shaped by centuries of history, local legends, steaming landscapes, and deeply rooted traditions, onsen towns are more than just a place to relax and bathe. From mountain towns where steaming hot spring waters are cooled with wooden paddles in tune with traditional songs to historic bathhouses said to have inspired Spirited Away, each onsen town offers its own distinct ambiance and story. If you’re looking for more than just relaxation, these four iconic hot spring destinations showcase some of the very best of Japan’s onsen culture.
Missed parts one and two of our onsen series? Check them out here:
History of Onsens: https://www.givingtuesday.jp/post/all-about-onsen-japan-s-favorite-relaxing-pastime
Onsen Rules: https://www.givingtuesday.jp/post/a-beginner-s-guide-to-onsens-expectations-vs-reality-onsen-rules
Kusatsu Onsen (草津温泉), Gunma Prefecture
High up in the mountains at about 1,200 meters above sea level, Kusatsu Onsen is one of Japan’s most iconic hot spring towns and it’s easy to see why. The town is known for its abundant, natural hot spring water, which is highly acidic and reaches around 55°C before it’s cooled for bathing. In fact, it produces more natural hot spring water than any other onsen in Japan. Locals and visitors alike have long believed the waters help with a wide range of conditions, especially for the skin.
Kusatsu’s reputation wasn’t only known locally. Even Tokugawa shoguns are said to have valued these hot springs so highly that the water was shipped in barrels all the way to Edo. Its fame only continued to grow in the late 19th century, when German doctor Erwin von Baelz praised its waters for their health benefits during his time at the imperial court.
Right in the center of town, you’ll find the iconic yubatake, or “hot water field,” where steaming geothermal water flows through wooden channels to cool down while preserving its minerals. The smell of hot spring water drifts through the streets. If you head all the way to Sainokawara Park, you’ll find yourself surrounded by steaming hot spring waters.
If you time it right, you might also catch a traditional yumomi performance, where locals cool the hot water by stirring it with large wooden paddles while singing folk songs in sync.
And Kusatsu isn’t just about bathing. Depending on the season, you can ski in winter or go hiking in the warmer months, making it a great mix of outdoor adventure and onsen relaxation. Japan’s Famous Onsen Towns
Getting there from Tokyo: Japan’s Famous Onsen Towns
By Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station (nearest station to Kusatsu Onsen)
Take a train from Ueno Station to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station using one of several available routes (around 2.5 hours or more).
From the station, ride a bus to Kusatsu Onsen (approximately 25–30 minutes).
By Karuizawa
Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo or Ueno Station to Karuizawa Station (about 1 hour).
From Karuizawa, take a bus to Kusatsu Onsen (around 30 minutes).
By Highway Buses
Several highway buses run directly from Tokyo to Kusatsu Onsen, making it an easy option without transfers.
Kinosaki Onsen (城崎温泉), Hyogo Prefecture
Kinosaki Onsen feels like stepping into a beautifully preserved storybook town. With a history stretching back over 1,300 years and popularity since the Heian period, it’s one of Japan’s most charming and photogenic onsen destinations.
A quiet river (Otani river) runs through the center of town, lined with traditional buildings and seven public bathhouses: Ichino-yu, Goshono-yu, Kouno-yu, Jizo-yu, Satono-yu, Yanagi-yu, and Mandara-yu. The whole town is compact enough that you can walk from one end to the other in about twenty minutes, stopping for a soak along the way.
Many visitors stay in one of the town’s seventy-four ryokan, which provide free access to all the public baths during their stay. These ryokan are mostly family-run and have been passed down through many generations.
One of the best parts of Kinosaki is simply wandering around in a yukata. A yukata is a light cotton kimono commonly worn in onsen towns and ryokan. It is usually paired with wooden sandals called geta. In cooler months, people often add a haori jacket over their yukata. This relaxed strolling with no particular destination is known as sozoro aruki. This is a huge part of the experience, especially in the soft evening light when the town feels even more atmospheric.
Like many onsen towns, Kinosaki Onsen offers outdoor activities throughout the year. During summer, visitors can enjoy hiking and climbing in areas such as the Kannabe Kogen region. In winter, the town receives regular snowfall, making it ideal for skiing and snowboarding. At this time of year, Kinosaki becomes especially beautiful, with its ryokan and rivers covered in fresh snow, a truly captivating sight it is well known for.
The Legend of Kinosaki Onsen
According to legend, the town was founded by a Buddhist priest named Douchi Shonin. After arriving in the area and praying for those suffering from incurable illnesses, he received a vision in a dream telling him to seek out a hot spring. After 1,000 days of prayer, hot water is said to have burst from the ground, giving rise to the onsen town.
Onsenji Temple, located at the western edge of town, was built in dedication to the priest. In the past, visitors would pray there before entering the baths, though this is no longer practiced today. It remains a peaceful historic site, with mountain views accessible via a short hike or a ropeway to an observation deck.
Getting there from Osaka:
By JR Limited Express Kounotori
Take the Kounotori limited express train from Osaka Station to JR Kinosaki Onsen Station (around 2 hours and 45 minutes).
Reserved seats are required
By Bus
Zentan Buses and Willer Express Buses offer direct and connecting routes from Osaka to Kinosaki Onsen (around 3 hours).
Beppu Onsen (別府), Oita Prefecture
Beppu is less a single onsen town and more a collection of hot spring areas known as Beppu Hatto.
Each of the eight areas,
Beppu Onsen, Kannawa, Myoban, Kankaiji, Hamawaki, Kamegawa, Horita, and Shibaseki, has its own distinct feel, bathing style, and history with countless baths and ryokan scattered throughout.
Hamawaki Onsen was once Beppu’s cultural heart, known for its coastal springs, inns, and lively entertainment during the Meiji and Taisho eras.
Kamegawa Onsen, also along the coast, once served as a gateway for travelers coming from northern Kyushu and is is best known today for its natural sand baths.
Kannawa Onsen is one of the most picturesque areas, famous for its steam-filled streets that create some of Beppu’s most iconic geothermal scenery.
Kankaiji Onsen sits on higher ground and offers wide panoramic views over the city and Beppu Bay, dating back to the Kamakura period.
Horita Onsen developed during the Edo period as a place for long stays and post-travel recovery.
Shibaseki Onsen is surrounded by forested hills and offers a mix of hot spring bathing and walking trails, and has long been known for its healing waters and historic imperial visits.
Myoban Onsen is known for its traditional production of myōban (alum) and yunohana (crystallized hot spring minerals), preserving a strong connection to historic bathing culture and skin-focused onsen traditions.
What makes Beppu especially remarkable is its scale. The city has nearly 3,000 hot spring sities, making up more than 10% of all hot spring vents in Japan. As a result, Beppu is known for producing the highest volume of hot spring water in Japan.
The Legend of Beppu Onsen
Legend says these hot springs go all the way back to the 8th century. The gods Sukunabikona and Okuninushi were traveling through Iyo-no-Kuni, now Ehime Prefecture, when Sukunabikona suddenly fell ill. To help him recover, Okuninushi is said to have sent hot spring water from Beppu Onsen to the ancient Dogo Onsen, where Sukunabikona was miraculously healed. Later, even wounded samurai are said to have bathed here during the Kamakura period (1185-1333) to recover.
Today, Beppu is still very much alive with that same energy. Locals and travelers move between baths, exploring each district and enjoying the sheer variety of hot spring experiences.
Getting there from Tokyo:
By Shinkansen + Limited Express (via Kokura)
Get on the Tokaido/Sanyo Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Kokura Station
Switch to the Sonic limited express train to Beppu Station (about a total of 6 hours)
The Japan Rail Pass is fully valid on Hikari and Sakura trains, but extra fees are required for Nozomi and Mizuho trains.
Getting there from Hakata, Oita, Miyazaki, and nearby areas:
By Limited Express Train
Direct trains from Hakata, Oita, Miyazaki, and Hitoyoshi
Getting there from Beppu Station:
Ekimae-koto Onsen
About a 2-minute walk from Beppu Station
Shibaseki Onsen
About a 30-minute bus ride from Beppu Station
All other seven onsen areas
Easily accessible by local buses or public transport from Beppu Station
Dogo Onsen (道後温泉), Ehime Prefecture
Dogo Onsen is one of Japan’s most famous hot spring destinations. It is best known for its striking main bathhouse, Dogo Onsen Honkan, built in 1894. The wooden structure rises three stories high and features a distinctive watchtower with red-tinted glass windows and a white egret, a kind of heron, on top. Inside, it’s a labyrinth of stairways, corridors, and bathing rooms filled with both visitors and staff moving through its historic space. It’s even said to have inspired the bathhouse in the popular Ghibli movie, Spirited Away.
The water comes from 18 natural sources ranging from 20°C to 55°C and is carefully blended to around 42°C for bathing. One of the features that makes Dogo Onsen special is that the water is neither reheated nor mixed with additional water, preserving its natural state.
Visitors can choose from different bathing options, from a simple public bath to more private experiences that include additional baths or even a tatami room. There’s also the chance to visit a bath once used by the Imperial Family.
The Legend of Dogo Onsen
Dogo Onsen’s story is just as memorable as its architecture. According to Yoyogungo Rigen-shū, a collection of local tales, there’s a story about an egret with an injured leg that discovered the Dogo hot springs. It’s said the bird kept soaking in the water until it healed, again and again. Because of this, the area came to be known as Sagadani, or “Egret Valley.” People who saw what happened grew curious and started bathing in the spring too, finding that it helped ease fatigue and support recovery from illness, and from there, onsen bathing in the area began to spread. To commemorate the story, a stone called sagi ishi (egret stone) was placed across from Dogo Onsen Station.
Getting there from Matsuyama City:
From JR Matsuyama Station
Take tram line 5 to Dogo Onsen (about 20 minutes)
From Matsuyama-shi Station
Take tram line 3 to Dogo Onsen (about 15 minutes)
Getting there from Osaka:
By Train
Take the JR Sanyo Shinkansen from Osaka to Okayama (about 1 hour)
Transfer to the JR Shiokaze limited express train bound for Matsuyama (about 2.5 hours)
The Japan Rail Pass is fully valid on Hikari and Sakura trains, but extra fees are required for Nozomi and Mizuho trains.
By Highway Bus to Matsuyama
Daytime buses (about 5.5 hours)
Overnight buses (around 7 hours)
Services include Willer Express and other highway bus operators
Ready to Explore?
From the steaming yubatake of Kusatsu to the peaceful riverside streets of Kinosaki, the vast hot spring districts of Beppu, and the historic bathhouse of Dogo Onsen, each destination offers a completely different experience while sharing the same connection to Japan’s long bathing culture. Some are lively and atmospheric, others quiet and nostalgic, but all invite visitors to slow down, soak in the scenery, and experience a side of Japan centered around rest, tradition, and the natural beauty of its hot springs.
Picture Sources:
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