Washoku: Food and Harmony

What is Washoku? 

Washoku (和食): Wa (和) is the character for Japan, or harmony, and Shoku (食) is the character for to eat, or things related to food. Together, it means Japanese food, or cuisine. Today, washoku specifically refers to traditional Japanese cuisine that existed before the introduction of Western cuisine, such as miso soup, grilled fish, and sushi. Japanese foods that were imported and then adapted to the Japanese taste, such as ramen and curry, are not included in washoku. 

In 2013, UNESCO recognized washoku as intangible cultural heritage. It was defined as “a set of skills, knowledge, practice and traditions related to the production, processing, preparation and consumption of food”. UNESCO specifically focuses on special New Year’s preparations, such as pounding rice for rice cakes or specialized New Year’s meals called osechi ryori (おせち料理). 

A typical Japanese meal set 

Structure: Ichiju Sansai (一汁三菜)

Ichiju Sansai (一汁三菜) is the basic structure for meal sets present in washoku. It translates to  “One soup, three dishes”, with each meal set containing one bowl of soup, one main dish, and two side dishes, along with a bowl of rice. Rice is a staple in the Japanese diet, so most meals come with a bowl of rice.

The soup is commonly a simple miso soup with seaweed or other vegetables. The main dish can be grilled fish or other protein like tofu or meat. Side dishes are different types of pickled vegetables. Though this is a standard structure for washoku meals, it is not a strict rule and more of a guideline for building a nutritionally balanced diet. 

History

In order to understand washoku, you have to understand how Japanese cuisine has developed throughout the country’s history.  In Japan’s Jomon period (14000 - 400 BCE), people began a semi-sedentary lifestyle and moved away from being nomadic hunter-gatherers. In this era, fish was the people’s main source of protein, but deer, boars, and hares were also hunted for food.

They also gathered various nuts, such as chestnuts and acorns, and wild plants. At the end of this period, people arriving from the Korean Peninsula introduced rice cultivation to Japan.  Later on, in the Yayoi period (400 BCE - 250 AD), the Japanese diet was described for the first time in Chinese writings.  This is where the wa in washoku was first used to refer to Japan (History of Japanese Cuisine). 

A Japanese set meal with rice and deep-fried fish

The Yamato Period (250 - 710) and Nara period (710 - 794) were revolutionary for Japanese cuisine, as fermentation was mastered. This led to the introduction of many staple ingredients like miso, soy sauce, rice vinegar, and tsukemono (fermented vegetables), just to name a few. During the Yamato and Nara periods, the introduction of Buddhism led to a nationwide ban on meat, excluding fish.

In the Heian (794-1185) and Feudal period (1185-1603), chopsticks were introduced and popularized as eating utensils. Tofu and noodle-making methods were introduced from China, giving rise to noodles such as udon and soba. By the 9th century, major cooking methods like grilling, steaming, simmering, and pickling had become staples of Japanese cuisine. Frying with oil and fats would not be introduced from Portugal until the 16th century. 

In the Edo period (1603-1868), Japanese cuisine continued to develop. Kaiseki ryori (会席料理), a formal meal served in ceremonial celebration, as well as cha kaiseki ryori (茶懐石料理), meals served in traditional Japanese tea ceremonies, were codified. The meal structure of Ichiju Sansai, meaning “one soup, three dishes,” also appeared during this time. In the early 19th century, the sushi people know and love today began to take form as a type of street food popular in Edo, now Tokyo. 

Tofu, an essential part of the Japanese diet, was introduced during the Heian period

Washoku (和食) vs Yoshoku (洋食) 

The term washoku actually came about in the Meiji period (1868-1912), around the mid-19th to early 20th century, to distinguish between Western cuisine and Western-inspired Japanese cuisine called Yoshoku (洋食). During the early Meiji period, when the isolation period ended, iconic Japanese dishes, such as ramen, curry rice, and tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet), were introduced to Japan from Asia, Europe, and other parts of the world. The influx of new foods and cooking methods changed Japan’s food culture drastically. Many foods from around the world were adapted to Japanese taste and became part of their daily diet, but are not considered washoku. 

Japanese curry rice, served with soup and several side dishes

Core principles 

Harmony and Balance Washoku: Food and Harmony

In washoku, harmony and balance are the essential principles for building a meal. Every meal is designed to be visually appealing, nutritionally balanced, and texturally interesting. These meals incorporate a combination of cooking techniques, such as grilling, steaming, boiling, fermenting, etc. The structure of Ichiju Sansai also helps keep the meal nutritionally balanced and ensures no one food group is overly represented. 

Presentation is also important in washoku; the meal has to be visually appealing and harmonious in color and texture. It also includes the type of wares used: specific dishes or bowls whose designs reflect different seasons or occasions. 

Seasonality

Like other Japanese crafts, the changing seasons are essential to washoku, with the emphasis on using what’s available for each season, known as Shun (旬). Seasonal ingredients are believed to be more nutritious and tastier. Newly harvested rice - shinmai (新米)  is also a highly valued seasonal item and is favored when available.

Seasonality affects not only ingredient choice but also presentation and cooking methods. Special dishes or courses are also prepared only on special occasions, such as New Year's. In more formal traditional meals, seasonal changes also affect the decoration of the space and the wares used.

Simplicity 

Due to the influence of Zen Buddhism in Japanese culture, simplicity is also highly valued in washoku. Only minimal seasoning is used, such as miso, mirin, and soy sauce, just enough to bring out the flavors of each ingredient. Dashi broth also makes up the base of many washoku dishes, and it is a simple broth made from kelp and bonito. 

Different types of Washoku

Washoku includes many categories of meals, depending on the occasion and formality. In Buddhist temples, because meat is prohibited, vegan cuisine called Shojin ryori (精進料理) is standard, although some temples allow dairy products. Another form you might have heard of is Kaiseki Ryori (会席料理),  a traditional meal served at formal ceremonial banquets. Cha kaiseki ryori (茶懐石料理) is a meal course served during longer and more formal tea ceremonies.  While the kaiseki ryori is pronounced the same in both courses, they’re written using different characters. The final type is called Hozen Ryori (本膳料理), a meal that used to be reserved for the aristocratic courts but is now offered as an experience at some restaurants. 

Experience 

There are many ways to experience washoku, especially if you are traveling in Japan, from more daily, informal forms to the most formal, full-course experience. Teishoku (定食) restaurants, which are set meals, are very popular in Japan. You can find them everywhere, from local places to chains that specialize in teishoku, such as Ootoya and Yayoiken. Many chains offer menus in different languages, such as English, Chinese, or Korean, making it easy for tourists to try them. 

A set meal available at Ootoya, one of Japan’s many Teishoku chains. 

Closing remarks 

Washoku is a window into authentic  Japanese culture. Not only is it about food, washoku is a way of building community, appreciation of local resources and the passage of time. Washoku is also a collection of practices that has developed and persisted throughout Japan’s long and rich history. While Japanese cuisine is undoubtedly one of the most popular cuisines in the world, the traditional diet is often still overlooked and underrated. 

Washoku: Food and Harmony

Image sources

1. https://unsplash.com/photos/a-wooden-table-topped-with-a-plate-of-food-GW1BUTVR5Po 

2. https://unsplash.com/photos/a-tray-of-food-on-a-wooden-table-YCrrO9mAm-A 

3. https://unsplash.com/photos/a-plate-of-food-with-rice-meat-and-sauces-_4WB0KKk-iU 

4. https://www.ootoya.com/english/ 

5. https://unsplash.com/photos/person-holding-white-and-blue-ceramic-plate-with-rice-and-sliced-cucumber-v-zpEVeWjy0 

Sources 

1. Washoku (和食) | Japan's UNESCO-Recognized Traditional Food Culture Explained 

2. Washoku, traditional dietary cultures of the Japanese, notably for the celebration of New Year 

3. What is Washoku? 和食とは 

4. Discover Ichiju Sansai: The Japanese Formula for Balanced Meals (一汁三菜 ) 

5. History of Japanese Cuisine – Japan Food Style 

6. https://www.foodinjapan.org/japan/washoku/ 

7. What Is Teishoku? A Deep Dive Into Japanese Set Meals – Umami bites 

8. Ultimate Guide to Osechi Ryori (Japanese New Year's Food) おせち料理 

9. What is Washoku? 和食とは